Outdoor Slovenia

It was quite embarrassing. I had to confirm that I hadn't drank any alcohol in the last twelve hours. But I spent the previous evening at the friend's place and we drank some wine. The girl at the desk smiled at me: »It's okay. The problems are those who come drunk and want to sky dive.« And yet I felt like being ready for joining the AA ... But how could I possibly know that I'd be waken up next morning by a phone call saying I could come and jump?

Fortunately, we didn't drink that much and there was no hangover hanging over anything, so I drove to Lesce, the alpine town in Upper Carniola with a small airport and a skydiving school with a promise: »A beautiful panoramic flight with the airplane, the thrill while getting prepared to jump, the incredible mixture of feelings during the free fall, gliding through the clouds under the open parachute … That’s all part of the adventure you can only get by making a tandem skydive!«

I did it some years ago. But the skydiving school that made one of my big wishes to come true (Prosti pad) still exists and the panoramic views above Lesce are still the same. But: let the video speak!

It was really fantastic! There's lots of laughing – I laugh quite a lot, but not that much. I guess that was the only way to ease the distress :-). Especially when I was sitting on the edge of the plane cabin in front of my instructor, with our legs dangling in the air, 3000 meters above the ground. That was a bit scary. But then, the free fall, the shouting (they tell you to yell and you obey!)! And then the gliding through the air, surrounded with the the mountains; if the sky was clear I'd see all the Slovenian Alps. It was really a great experience that calls for more!

P. s.: And there's a hint: when you're grounded (literally) and when you calm down, you might find interesting that one of the most popular Slovenian tourist destinations is just around a corner. That's Bled with the oldest castle in Slovenia, built on the cliff above the glittering alpine lake.

P. s. s.: And there's another hint: Radovljica is even closer. Visit the charming old part of this small alpine town and find out why is it called »honestly sweet«!

It's rainy outside. Grey allover. It's one of these days you're glad to be inside, possibly with a good book in your lap. I've just read a good one. Cheryl Strayed, Wild: From Lost to Found on the Pacific Crest Trail. I have to admit I had some scruples about it; a bestseller quickly transformed into a Hollywood movie. But I was wrong. The book is well-written, the story is absorbing and touching.

But there is something else. While reading a book the Pacific Crest Trail was flashing in front of my eyes in all of its beauty and – mostly: wilderness. The John Muir's wilderness of solitude and breathtaking scenery; the deserts, the mountains, the meadows, the bushes, the streams, the lakes, the views … Once in a lifetime I'd like to experience at least some hundred kilometers of more than four thousand that make the trail a really tough psychological and physical challenge.

So what defines the adventure?

Adventure goes hand in hand with nature. There are three elements that create the adventure. First, there are troubles we have to face and overcome. Second, it has to be dangerous. There's plenty of danger in nature. Third and most important: exposure. When you devote to nature there will be trouble, danger and exposure. But, further you go, the stronger and deeper is the experience. I borrowed this »definition« of the adventure from Reinhold Messner, one of the greatest mountaineers of all time, but also the passionate explorer of the places that humans usually don't visit just for fun.

I lecture about adventure tourism to the students so I'm well aware that adventure is quite a sleazy term. Someone can feel totally adventurous for doing things someone else considers just as common as driving a car. So you cannot point your finger to someone and say: You're not adventurous at all! I guess it's kind of arrogant. My mum finds most of the things I do outdoor dangerous and risky, but my perception of adventure is much more »strict«. I'd like to reach the Messner's triplet, but I'd be satisfied with far less exclusive experiences :-).

It's not that I never confront troubles, danger and exposure in nature – I do sometimes, while climbing or riding a mountain bike. But mostly I try to stay safe as much as possible. I guess it's because of that I've always admired those bold men and women that overcome their fears and step into the unknown with the huge bag full of all kinds of risks. But it's not the risk part that attracts me most. It's the unspeakable beauty and the solitude of the nature – which you usually get in the remote places with no infrastructure that ease your experience. And wilderness usually brings troubles, danger and exposure.

While some fears arising from the characteristics of the wilderness are totally reasonable (and it would be also reasonable to get some of those Bear Grylls skills to survive all kinds of misfortunes that are lurking around every bend in the wilderness), some are pretty irrational. Have you seen Deliverance? I'm sure this movie scared to death lots of »let's get adventurous in the wilderness« kind of types! (Just like Jaws succeeded to convince people all over the world that they're probably going to die in the jaws of the great white shark if they just put a finger into the ocean.)

The future will be bolder!

But I intend to be bolder in the future, step by step. After all, if I look back to who I was in my early twenties, I can say I'm much more adventurous now. Who knows what happens next :-)?

After reading Wild M. and I revived the idea of revisiting Patagonia, this time for the trekking in one of the remote Patagonia's national parks. But first we'll hike the Velebit hiking trail in Croatia; 100 kilometers long, nine days of trekking with all the supplies in the backpack, sleeping in the modest shelters on the trail. And we'll hike for couple of days in the Slovenian Alps, sleeping under the stars (or clouds) and carrying all the supplies in our backpacks. (I love sleeping outside in the mountains – but the »bedroom« has to be above the woods; all these strange voices in the dark … Nope, I'm not ready to sleep deep in the woods yet :-)! And besides, higher you go, more solitude and silence you enjoy.)

So that's what I'm dreaming about while the rain is pouring and the days are dressed in dull gray clothes. But, hey, dreaming is good :-): »If one advances confidently in the direction of his dreams, and endeavors to live the life which he has imagined, he will meet with a success unexpected in common hours.« Well said, Henry David Thoreau!

And some photos of what I found adventurous at the time being :-). Winter mountaineering in the Slovenian Alps (Mt. Prisojnik, 2547 m), the switch from climbing as the second one to lead climbing, falling in love with the single trails and sleeping for the first time under the stars in the mountains.

And then ... I read this :-): http://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2016/feb/15/how-one-woman-keeps-bear-grylls-alive-survival-megan-hine! Don't think any words are needed :-).

It was almost like I've just made the final step to fall into the lap of the bloodthirsty witch; you know, the one from the famous fairy tale about Hansel and Gretel. The one that owns the gingerbread house to lure children to her to cook and eat them. The resemblance was obvious: the small hut where we were to be spending the weekend was so similar to the candy house from the fairly tale! Well, in truth, there was wood instead of candies and solitude instead of crazy witch. But I don't need a wicked woman to kidnap me; I can do that by myself! Just to be able to spend some time off in this cute hut in the forest, sitting at the wood-burning stove and read ...

Excuse me, can you tell me where the winter is?

I was spending the weekend on Pokljuka plateau in the Julian Alps above and between the two Slovenian alpine gems Bled and Bohinj, celebrating the winter. I mean – the real white winter. It's cold in the city alright these days, but it's also green! You have to lift yourself a little bit higher to experience the proper winter.

We were staying in the Goreljek hut that's managed by Triglav National Park (TNP); pushed into the forest, far enough from the road it brings the pleasant feeling of solitude and serenity. There are some neighboring huts, but you don't even notice them. You feel like being the only one in the shelter of the elegant spruce trees that grow all over Pokljuka. (Many beech and fir trees were chopped down in the 18th century for the iron foundries in Bohinj. They have been naturally replaced mostly by spruce trees.)

Which mountain to climb?

I visit Pokljuka mostly in the winter. It's a good starting point for hiking into the mountains that stretches above the plateau: Mt. Viševnik (2050 m), Veliki Draški vrh (2243 m), Mali Draški vrh (2132 m), Mt. Ablanca (2004 m), Debela peč (2014 m) and many others.

When alone and not in the mood for a long hike I usually climb to Mt. Viševnik, the most popular peak here; you don't have to work too hard to get the superb views at the end of the climb. Mt. Triglav, the highest Slovenian peak, is boasting nearby – it seems you could almost touch it.

Veliki Draški vrh is a bit more demanding; it takes an hour and a half more than Mt. Viševnik (two hours at least) and the climb to the top can be a bit icy (although Mt. Viševnik is more exposed since you're walking on the ridge to get to the top).

I haven't climbed Mali Draški vrh yet – once there was too much snow that thawed and was making a thick sole on my crampons and once there was not enough snow to climb it.

But my favorite winter peak above Pokljuka is Mt. Ablanca with taking the steep (almost) climbing route to the top where you're awarded with splendid views on Julian Alps.

My starting point for climbing all these peaks is Rudno polje (1344 m) with the big parking area and where the Sports center Pokljuka is – the main sports spot on Pokljuka plateau. Rudno polje is hugely popular among  recreational cross-country skiers. Over 30 kilometers of trails connect different parts of Pokljuka (from Rudno polje to Javorniška planina ...). Traditionally, Pokljuka is known as the home of Slovenian biathletes; it also holds world famous biathlon competitions. However, recreational cross-country skiers are the most numerous recreational athletes in the winter.

Forests, forests, forests ...

Pokljuka is a forested high karst plateau, the largest closed forest area in the Triglav National Park. It is 20 kilometers long and almost as wide. In a span from 1000 to 1400 meters there are around 6300 hectares of forests, in which spruce prevails. A rugged surface of hidden shafts, overgrown potholes, dolines and valleys is a remnant of the activity of the Pokljuka glacier. It left behind the Pokljuka bogs that belong to the most southern high bogs in Europe. (Goreljek, the area where our hut was, is one of them.) In the summer season one of its appealing points is certainly the cattle, still grazing on its pastures. The shepherds of these pastures provide the visitors with sour milk, curd and cheese. (I was writing about this in the blog: »Cheesy« MTB day on the high plateaus above Lake Bohinj!)

No path, but lots of beauty

This weekend was about something new; I haven't repeated any of the well known hikes or climbs. We took the unmarked path (well, there was no path in the snow anyway ...) from Rudno polje to the remote area on the foothills of Mt. Selišnik with Mt. Viševnik and Mali Draški vrh on the left and Debela peč on the right; it was magnificient. It was like standing on the big cake covered with whipped cream. The clouds were rambling in the sky, but the sun made its way through them now and then. We couldn't stay still for long though; the cold wind was blowing so hard that you had to bend here and there not be to blown away. But it was a gorgeous day anyway. We ended the trip with a strong schnapps to warm ourselves up on the big terrace of the Sports center Pokljuka.

The next day was the wind blowing even harder. So we made a short but nice hike through the forests up to the Javorov vrh (1482 m). Not a very impressive peak, but the views from the top are fantastic: Julian Alps, Kamnik-Savinja Alps and  Karawanks; we got a glimpse on all three Slovenian mountain chains.

And this was the end, beautiful friend ... to rephrase The Doors, only in much more optimistic manner :-)! It's great to kidnap oneself now and then. Hope to repeat it in the near future!

I want this storybook to be about Slovenia or at least about its surroundings – but the second half of 2015 was mostly about wandering abroad: searching for the MTB trails in the Carnic Alps and the Dolomites, trekking in the Indian Himalayas and having a great time on single trails in Finale Ligure on Italian coast.

But there was one great MTB trip last summer I still haven't written about ;-): in Carinthia, the region that is becoming more and more MTB friendly. It's one of the Slovenian regions which is a bit ignored by both, Slovenians and foreign visitors. Located in the northern part of the country, surrounded by the hills and mountains and with no perfect road connections it seems a bit isolated; plus it doesn't have well advertised hot spots like the alpine lakes like Bled and Bohinj, the emerald Soča river, the best wine producers (Goriška Brda, for example), the seaside ... »Just« lots of nature, mountains and hills, small towns and villages. And a history of the heavy industry which had a big impact on the environment in the past but was luckily abandoned and transformed into the legacy to remember.

Doesn't sound attractive enough? Well, you'd be wrong to think it's not.

From underground biking to bike parks

Actually – for the nature lovers Carintihia has it all. Especially for those who enjoy spending their time in the countryside on the tourist farm, tasting home made food, enjoying the long walks in the forests and on the well maintained macadam roads with nice views. The cattle graze on the vast meadows, full of wild flowers that flourish in the spring and summer. And there are lots of villages and towns with unique past, heritage and culture. (Did you know, for example, that there is a statue of Mahatma Gandhi in one of the biggest towns in Carinthia – Slovenj Gradec? In 1989 Slovenj Gradec got the distinguished title of the Peace Messenger City!)

And last but not least – Carinthia is a perfect MTB getaway. Kilometers of well marked dirt roads through the meadows and the forests, passing by isolated farms at higher altitudes, small villages ... The trail park that is still being under construction and will surely become one of the most popular MTB spots in Slovenia. There is also one of the most unforgettable tourism experiences in Slovenia: underground biking along the abandoned and mysterious mining tunnels under Mt. Peca. Plus: on the other side of the border, in Austrian Carinthia, but very close to Slovenia, there is the longest flow trail in Europe. It flows from Mt. Peca, the border mountain, where the famous King Matjaž sleeps and waits for the right time to weak up and become a great ruler again ...

Ten kilometers of pure flow

We started our Carinthia MTB journey on the Austrian side to try the Petzen flow trail near Bleiburg. Ten kilometers, downhill over ramps, tables, S bends. No special technical knowledge needed. (Exactly what I've needed :-)!) No muss, no fuss. You use the cable car to lift yourself and your bike for around 1000 meters to the start of the trail. You don't have to be the most daring downhiller to make the flow; you just take it slow to get used to it. The second and the third flow were super fun! So super I almost flew from the S bend on several occasions :-). Well, the fourth one was the last one for me; my legs were like omelets. After 40 kilometers of descending it was time to finish the day – in one peace at least!

Get uphill and check the heritage

We drove back to Slovenia – to Ravne na Koroškem, the largest town and traditional capital of Slovenia's Carinthia region with a long tradition in steel industry. We booked two nights in Punkl, really nice youth hostel, designed as an architecturally unique low-energy building which exploits natural resources of the surrounding area. The room was bright and neat, there is a big kitchen in the ground floor where you can cook if you want (we didn't – we rather checked the local restaurants) and the stuff was nice and helpful. We decided to explore the marked MTB roads above Ravne the next day. Quite a lot of ascending (being fit helps :-)), though it was a nice ride passing the farms that enjoy the solitude in the middle of the meadows and the forests. We visited a bunch of small villages that rested in tranquility; Strojna was one of them – one of the most well known villages in the region that has kept its identity and the rural way of life over the centuries.

Single trail park Jamnica – so cool!

Real fun was planned for the next day: we visited Single Trail Park Jamnica, where trails run through forests and fields. You can either decide to take easy flowing trails or technically more demanding ones. Trails are connected with an easy uphill ride on the slopes of the hill. We stopped at the bike hotel Ekohotel Koroš in Jamnica where the trails begin. With a reason: the family that runs the hotel is the one that has been building the park and is also the most proactive in developing MTB tourism in the region for much more than the decade. We were lucky to get the youngest of the family team at home; he was kind and helpful with a map, information and suggestions. All for free, though they have a small box you can put some contribution for the park (and we did – the only right thing to do when someone makes a big effort that enables you to have a great experience). The day wasn't perfect – it was raining all morning and some trails were slippery and muddy; so we chose the ones that were dry enough and not too difficult. Beautiful! No stones, just soft ground with gentle ramps, tables and S bends. And blueberries :-).

It's a simple plan: you descend, then ascend, descend again, ascend again ... Although the ascents are not long, the sum can be quite impressive if you'd like to make as much descents as possible.

We skipped the other parts of the region this time. So – this year it's time to revisit :-)!

It's not a hard job to get to the top of the mountain Matajur on the Slovenian-Italian border high above Kobarid and the valleys of the emerald Soča and Nadiža rivers, if you're moderately fit. And if you start a trip high enough, of course :-). Matajur is a nice mountain, it's not steep, there are many paths that guide you to the top, narrow and wide ones, there's a lot of mountain flowers you can admire, if you make the trip in the spring or in the summer, there's a beautiful view from the summit ...

So – we make the MTB trip on Matajur every year (well, it was the third this year). What I wrote about the ascent suites both, hikers and mountain bikers. But for those that are fond of MTB, is Matajur a bit more special then for those who like to walk. Because there's a fantastic single track from the summit of Matajur that slides through vast mountain meadows and forests and it's long enough (1500 vertical meters) that it exhausts you more than the ascent. I wish I could say it's one of the best single tracks in Slovenia, but I can't since it's in – Italy. You start a tour in Slovenia, but you are descending in Italy. Two countries in one day :-)!

Matajur is a nice and undemanding mountain and a real belvedere: from the summit there's a beautiful view toward the mountain chain of Kobariški Stol and the Carnic Alps and part of the Western Julian Alps in the background; there's a view of mount Krn, which looks like a sharply shaped nose on the scarred face, and of the ridge of Krnčica with the highest Slovenian mountain Triglav somewhere behind. If the weather treats you well, you can also catch a glimpse of the Adriatic Sea.

Matajur was also the part of the Isonzo Front during the World War One; the first battles started in May 1915, so there's a big anniversary this year. If you're visiting Soča Valley I suggest you visit the splendid museum in Kobarid, dedicated to the Isonzo Front and hike a part of the Walk of Peace that connects some crucial war points along the Soča river in Slovenia and Italy.

And now back to Matajur. There are a couple of possibilities to reach Matajur by bike from the Slovenian side. Two years ago we started the trip in the village Livek above Kobarid (if you're there, check out the Chalets Nebesa, one of the most unique tourist accommodations in Slovenia!). Last year we started it a bit higher – in the village Avsa, where the asphalt ends and where the macadam starts. Each time we had to cycle from Italy back to Slovenia, to Kobarid, where we left one car to get another one above the valley. It was a loooong ride back: when we ended the descent from Matajur, we had to cycle another 25 kilometers (or was it 30?) on the busy and boring roads back to Kobarid. That's why we took care of the logistics this year: we drove our cars to Avsa (860 meters altitude), took our bikes from the cars, then drove down the other side of the mountain, to Italy, where we planned to end the tour. We were a team of four, enough to take care of the bikes and drive all the cars to Italy.

The tour started where the hiking path to Matajur begins. The path turns into the forest, but we started to ride a bike on the wide macadam forest road. It's not steep so the ride is quite comfortable (if you cycle more than twice a year, of course). Here and there you have nice views of the surrounding hills, all covered with dark green forests. Here and there you meet a cow or two and the herds of goats.

But the most beautiful part of the ascent starts where you already see the summit of Matajur. The road slowly narrows and the last some hundred meters you sweat on the single track, surrounded by high grass, leaves of some sort of berries and the nettles (so it's not recommended to fall aside :-)) and mountain flowers.

We didn't cycle to the summit of Matajur; we ended the ascent at the mountain hut (Dom na Matajure) a bit under one hundred meters below it. Let's say we needed around two hours to ascend to the hut (a minute more or less). A quick hike to the summit – a gentle one, no steep rocks, just grass – and then: doooown!

We took the route number 749 on the Italian side. And it was ... heaven! Purgatory if not hell the last two years in the beginning :-), but this year I could quote Monty Python: And now for something completely different :-)! Pure pleasure! First there's a very narrow single track through the meadows and then to the woods and then again through the meadows and back to the woods ... Mostly not too steep or with to much rocks that shake you to the guts. (Well, I do have a hardtail.)

We followed 749 almost to the valley; when we left the single track we joined a slightly wider forest road where we could speed up a bit. We ended the descent near Ponte San Quirino and cycled some hundred meters to reach our cars.

This tour was close to perfection. The conditions were superb, no harvested grass that hardened the descent last year, no mud, no slippery rocks ... And while talking about perfection, I don't care about comparisons like: Weeell, yeah, may be, but the one in the Dolomites (or anywhere else) was muuuch better! It doesn't matter what and where was and will be better. What matters is now and the experience itself!

P.s.: For those who are visiting the area for the first time and would like to experience the tour I'd suggest hiring a local guide – for orientation, logistics and safety, of course.

P.s.s.: A suggestion: make a jump into the Nadiža river (or Soča if you're really tough!). Or drive to Bača pri Modreju at Most na Soči and swim in the Idrijca river like we did :-)!

P.s.s.s.: And check out the nicest notice from the way down! I miss something like that in Slovenia!

»The Alpine ibex (Capra ibex), also known as the steinbock or bouquetin, is a species of wild goat that lives in the mountains of the European Alps.« (Wikipedia)

It was quite frustrating. I met these beautiful creatures only once during dozens of trips into the mountains! So I decided to get professional help. I paid a visit to a wildlife expert in the Triglav National Park (TNP), the only Slovenian national park; its territory is nearly identical with that occupied by the Eastern Julian Alps. Smart decision! I found out that the biggest colony of Alpine ibex in Slovenia lives in the heart of the park in the areas Kriški podi, Luknja and Sovatna together with the neighbouring peaks Pihavec and Bovški Gamsovec. Half of all the Alpine ibexes in TNP presumably live in this area. Most of the rest live in the mountains above Bavšica Valley (near Bovec, the Slovenian adventure capital in the beautiful Soča Valley). All together there are around 150 Alpine ibexes in the park and around 200 in Slovenia.

So – let's go! Let's have a two-day trip into the mountains to meet as much Alpine ibexes as possible!

The plan was to start »The Alpine Ibex Mission« in the Vrata Valley, most famous and also the most popular alpine valley in Slovenia. It's a starting point for climbing the classic routes in impressive Mount Triglav north face (Triglav is also the highest peak in Slovenia, 2864 meters, and lots of the routes to the top are starting in the Vrata Valley – and you don't have to be a climber to make it to the top!) and also for hikes to the other popular peaks such as Škrlatica, Stenar ... A great deal of the history of Slovenian mountaineering was made in these big walls above the Vrata Valley. (And talking about Slovenian mountaineering – you might find interesting visiting the attractive Slovenian Alpine Museum in Mojstrana, the village, where you start ascending towards the Vrata Valley.)

But back to the plan, which was: Vrata Valley (1015 m)–Luknja Pass (1758 m)–Bovški Gamsovec (2392 m)–Kriški podi (mountain hut, sleepover; 2050 m)–Križ (2410 m)–Stenar (2501 m)–Sovatna–Vrata.

It was the beginning of the summer, an early afternoon and my had was boiling in the heat even Dante wouldn't mind for his Inferno. A nice path to the Luknja Pass seemed like a never-ending book. And there wasn't not even one Alpine ibex! »You should embrace more positive perspective! And you have to visualize them!« Metka, my friend and my companion on the mission tried to be supportive. (I wasn't sure should I blame the sun for this nonsense?)

When you reach the Luknja Pass you are rewarded with splendid views. Triglav north face on the left, Bovški Gamsovec on the right and the Trenta Valley, beautiful and peaceful alpine valley with the emerald Soča River bellow. Gray and green dominate the land. Fantastic. And just when we continued to walk towards Bovški Gamsovec – there he was! Our first Alpine ibex of the day! He kept the distance but ... there he was! And then another one!

Now this one was a natural born model. He didn't even winked when I started to make photos. Alpine ibex aren't timid; they're quite friendly actually. So it wasn't unusual that I could do a proper photo session with this poseur. (But of course from the respectful distance he was okay with.) He had to be older – his horns were long and wrinkled and he kept for himself. Older females also keep for theirself but their horns are shorter; youngsters (they are smaller and with shorter horns) are much more social.

We just couldn't stop starring at him. But we had to stop eventually heading to the top of Bovški Gamsovec. The views widened on the top, we saw the mountains Kanjavec, Pihavec, Razor, Križ, Stenar and other peaks and rigdes. I never get tired of the views in the mountains. I also don't mind experience the same peak, the same ridge, the same trip over and over again. The mountains are simply so impressive.

From the top we descended in the direction of the mountain hut (Pogačnikov dom) on Kriški podi and – well, well, look at them again! Dozens of them! Playful youngsters. Thank you Metka for positive thoughts :-)! (No more doubts about her mental health anymore!)

We reached the hut in the late afternoon and we spent the rest of the day hanging around the hut. The atmosphere inside was peaceful, other guests were quietly sitting in the dinning room, reading a book or playing cards. We shared the room with some unidentified male guests. A bit of snoring during the night but otherwise a quiet night.

We packed our bags early in the morning and crawled into the foggy day. We reached Križ quite quickly and then Stenar; lots of stones and rocks. Not the most beautiful paths in the Slovenian Alps but Stenar offers the best view on the Triglav north face; so, when you're there, lay and enjoy if the weather treats you well.

We descended through Sovatna and it was then when we fell into the documentary film. It was like National Geographic or Animal Channel live! A bunch of young Alpine ibexes searching for amusement in this cloudy day. A couple of them found it in a gentle battle – it was obvious they don't want to hurt each other, just have some fun. It was a small but a precious spectacle!

The point? Always trust a friend who bets on positive thoughts :-)!



More photos ...

Finally. I've been thinking of riding a bike on the high plateaus above Lake Bohinj for ages. Don't ask why I haven't done the trip, but eventually ... I did :-).

There were a lot of things to be looking forward to before the trip, but most of all: impressive nature, dominated by Julian Alps, and cheese-making tradition. The plan was to start the trip in a village Stara Fužina nearby glittering Lake Bohinj. (But a bit too cold for swimming in the beginning of June.) Next on the map was a neighbouring village Studor where we left a paved road and rode up hill to the high plateaus Uskovnica, Praprotnica, Zajamniki and Konjska dolina, well known for their shepherd's architecture and cheese-making. Then back to the starting point through the villages Zgornje Podjelje, Jereka, Češnjica and Srednja vas. Distance: around 30 kilometers, elevation: 1100 meters, the highest point: 1280 meters.

So, let's check if cows are already grazing up there!

But first a bit about the cheese-making tradition in the area. I'm quoting: »Alpine dairy farming, which began in the 13th century, and the related cheese-making was the foundation of Bohinj farming throughout history. Few fertile areas, long winters and short summers were the reason, why locals mostly focused on raising cattle (cows, goats, horses, sheep). Milk and dairy products were the basis for staple food for a long time. Data indicate that, in the past, approximately forty Alpine dairy farming settlements were active. They were divided into hay plateaus, middle, and high plateaus. In spring, shepherds began to graze their animals on hay plateaus, which were the lowest. Then they herded them to middle and high plateaus, and in autumn, they did the reverse towards the valley.«

After arriving to Bohinj and facing the unpleasant truth about parking fees in the area (1,5 euro per hour plus you have to pay in advance and I hate checking the time while taking time off!) the trip began. According to plan it was a lovely journey on the firm macadam roads in the shelter of thick woods. The shepherd's huts (which are nowadays mostly private holiday cabins, but neatly restored and maintained) are something to see, especially on Zajamniki.

The cattle was not numerous, it was just the beginning of the grazing season, so it was too soon to enjoy the dairy specialities. If you go there in the summer, you can try and buy lots of delicious fresh dairy products: cheese, cottage cheese, milk, sour milk ... I absolutely recommend the most special of Bohinj cheeses: mohant. Creamy cheese of a very strong taste. Not everyone likes it but it's really tasty. And if you don't reach the high plateaus you can visit the cheese-making farms in the valley. Bohinj Tourist Cheese-Makers Trail connects the cheese makers in the mountains and in the valley and it's the only cheese trail in Slovenia.

And there was again something that amazes me every time I leave the city to visit the Slovenian countryside. It's how neat and tidy it is. And Bohinj region is no exception; on the contrary: the villages, the fields, the meadows, they are so nice as they have been designed by someone totally obsessed with esthetic.

It was a great day and we ended it deliciously: with a home made supper in the small restaurant in Bohinjska Bistrica on the way back to Ljubljana, Gostilnica Štud'l. I ate the best štruklji on Earth and fantastic soup with fresh mushrooms. Bon appetit ;-)!

It doesn't matter if it's a road trip or MTB – I'm sure I'd never discover some hidden parts of Slovenia if I didn't ride a bike. I can definitely say that for one of the trips I made some days ago ...

»Almost no cars! And the only one that had driven-by has made me feel like we were in the museum!« Primož perfectly summed up the feeling of the day after an hour or two on the bicycle. (By the way: the car he was talking about was a very stylish old-timer.)

We started our half-day trip in Vipava, a nice town in the Vipava Valley in the western Slovenia, well known for its vineyards and wine production and cute old villages as Goče, Vipavski Križ, Šmarje ... on the top of the hills that surround the valley. My perfect viewpoint to see most of Vipava Valley and its surroundings has always been the top of the rock walls that raise nearby Vipava – hanging on the climbing rope after finishing the route and enjoying the view was almost equally enjoyable as climbing itself. Vipava's verticals are one of the biggest Slovenian spots for sport climbing. Lots of routes of different difficulties and lengths. This time I wasn't about to go there to climb. The path that leads to different climbing sectors supposed to be the final cut of this day's journey.

Strong bora embraced us as soon as we got out of the car. Fortunately it was warm enough that the wind wasn't a problem – well, it did try to slow us down occasionally, but we fought well!). Just a couple of minutes after leaving a parking lot we reached a nice field path and we were successfully avoiding the traffic all the way to Razdrto, our return point. This is one more thing I love about Slovenia: somehow you can always escape the traffic roads and find isolated ones. And that's how you get to know the landscapes and villages you'd never visit by car nor by foot.

We were sliding through colorful meadows, passing the herd of sheep, admiring charming but tired old houses we should buy and move here from Ljubljana (when we're older), meeting nice people gardening around their houses; we saw the mint plant just beside the road and the thought of stealing some blushing cherries was really tempting.

It's never just about doings sports; it's mostly about experience.

And it's also about having fun! Although there's one thing that can erase your smile while mountain biking in Slovenia immediately – the fact that our legislation puts all kind of limits for mountain bikers. I'm sharing the situation regarding MTB in Slovenia from the website Let's open the trails: »Existing Slovenian legislation is not in favour of MTB. Legislators and those that decide about laws would like to see cyclists on the roads along with cars and other motorized vehicles. We think that nature trails (single tracks, forest paths, field paths ...) are the essence of mountain biking.«

Though civil initiative for legislative changes is very active and is getting more and more attention. I'm keeping my fingers crossed! 

Back to our trip! I've almost forget to mention Podnanos, a lovely village known as a scene of a very popular Slovenian film Tistega lepega dne (One Fine Day, 1962). I love it! After we reached Razdrto (we had to put some extra effort up hill) we followed the signs for Nanos, a long plateau above us that's just taken its big cloudy hat off. Numerous trails are leading up to Nanos and Razdrto is one of the most popular starting points for reaching the plateau. We left the trail quickly to find the fantastic single track that's sliding the forestry slopes almost all the way back to Vipava. We didn't meet a soul (well, at least we didn't see any), although this is the part of Slovenian El Camino de Santiago with a lovely church of St. Nikolaj.

Lots of biking, some steps on foot (no, thank you, too steep!), and there was a perfect hint for ending the trip bellow the climbing sectors: a nice campsite to relax and chill.

Cheers :-)!

The atmosphere was quite amusing: polite guests behind the chequered table cloths on one side and a bit drunk locals behind the bar on the other. But this is something to respect: although restaurant Muha in Lokev, an attractive village in Karst region is a popular spot for having a good home made meal for lunch or dinner the owners didn't throw the locals out. We had a table just near the bar so we couldn't overheard the deep thoughts coming from a glass of wine to much :-).

This time we started our weekend journey at home – in Ljubljana. We crossed Ljubljana Marshes, the largest marsh in the country stretching below the city. The prehistoric pile dwellings and the oldest wooden wheel in the world are among the most notable archaeological findings from the Ljubljana Marches. Since 2011, the area of pile dwellings near Ig has been protected as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. (There are two more UNESCO sites in Slovenia: The Škocjan Caves and Idrija's mercury mine.)

We were trying to avoid the main roads as much as possible (as usual) so we left the busy road between Ig and Borovnica as quickly as possible. The narrow asphalt road was guiding us through the woods like a snake – left and right and left and right ... (And like a snake that tries to look like an erected Homo sapiens!)


After leaving the woods they embraced us again: colorful meadows! We passed peaceful villages and headed into the woods again – but this time there were no cars, just us. And perhaps a bear somewhere in the vicinity :-)! It was a beautiful ride in solitude to Cerknica, town well known for its annual carnival and a beautiful intermittent lake which is present for the most part of the year. When full, it is the largest lake in the country. 

From Cerknica to Rakov Škocjan, a valley and the oldest landscape park in Slovenia with two natural bridges and a river that runs in depths of the valley.

After leaving Rakov Škocjan we had to leave a dirty road to reach Postojna. The town is known for its world known attraction: Postojna cave. For 140 years, the Postojna Cave, as the only cave in the world, offers a unique ride with a special train, which will take you into the cave, under spectacular underground arches, which are embellished with chandellier look-alike stalactites, through a beautiful subterranean world full of playful limestone sculptures. We have visited the cave couple of times so we passed it and headed to Lokev where we planned to spend the night.


I like this village which was once the longest village in Slovenia. It's cute and it has some things worth visit: restored store from the middle of the 20th century, small but very interesting museum of the World War I in the military tower, well known prosciuto derives from here and here is also well known trattoria Muha (Fly) that has a long family history and great home made food. There is also Vilenica cave in vicinity, one of the most colorful and oldest tourist caves in Slovenia. And Lipica with its elegant lipican horses is also nearby.

We spent the night at Muha, had a nice small talk with the owner and other personal in the evening. We left the next day after really tasty home made breakfast towards Predjama castle nearby Postojna cave, surely the most magnificent castle in Slovenia! We were avoiding busy roads again which is not a big challenge in Slovenia, there are plenty of them, sliding through woods and (again!) beautiful meadows all to Logatec, the town we like to stop for a delicious pizza in one of their restaurants.

Tired ... And my butt is aching a bit. And what about the dark clouds and the wind that is blowing louder and louder? Well, be better get our asses back in the saddle and get home before the storm! We took the main road to Vrhnika and Ljubljana, cycled like there is a matter of life and death and – we did it, we outran the storm :-)!